And then, close to Rimskaya metro itself, I found a good fresh food and miscellaneous indoor and outdoor market. The smells of fresh herbs - dill and basil - were just glorious. More pickles, this time laid out neatly, but also vegetables, fruit, nuts, fresh teas and spices. Fab. I was actually planning to get on a mini-bus at the metro stop to go to ашан/Auchun (finally) - which together with Ramstore - is a chain of Moscow hypermarkets; the places I am told where you can get those things that can be difficult to find elsewhere, like lightbulbs.

But once I was in the market, I couldn't be bothered.